Bike plus train equals joy
Ready to roll, on roads, tracks and rails…
It’s a decade since I first packed a bike with all my stuff and set out to cross the English channel and make my way to see my parents in Germany. I wasn’t doing anything too hardy and cycling all the way, in fact I’d booked trains for most of the fifteen hundred mile journey. I just wanted to avoid flying and once I looked at the options I reckoned that having a bike would mean that I would be able to cycle between the ferry and train stations at either end. And it would also mean that I’d have a bike for the duration of my visit to explore the forests and hills around the town of Ilmenau in the Thüringer Wald (which is an internationally recognized biosphere and a great place to cycle).
Small bike and a big ship…
It was a bit radical at the time though – no one I knew had come up with this kind of solution to their carbon footprint worries. I’d pieced together routes via the ferry port of Hull taking the overnight boat to either Rotterdam or Brugge (I tried both eventually). A bike booking was barely more expensive than a foot passenger, which was a win.
Bike berth on the ferry
Luxury train carriage
Once I got to the stations, the onwards trains took me east to Germany but there were restrictions. None of the Deutsche Bahn high speed trains at the time would carry bicycles, so I had to book my way on regional trains. The downside was a whole day journey – much slower than the direct high speed ICEs. The plus side however, was the Regional Bahn’s excellent bike carriages. Reservation was required but bikes were stationed in absolute luxury and the carriages were a bit of a gathering point for cycle adventurers to chat.
The bike lane it has to be… even if it’s longer
It wasn’t always straightforward. I discovered, by trial and (ahem) error that the distance between Europoort and Rotterdam station was neither the Google maps distance of 11km nor the signposted 19km, but actually a bike path tour around every canal edge that would eventually clock up 40km. Not so much of an issue unless you had a train to catch at Rotterdam Central Station. I made it by putting my head down and riding my laden bike at a (frankly uncomfortable) pace - but only by a whisker.
Another time, booked onto the very first train of the day in east Germany (so that I’d make the ferry boarding time), the regional rail train was replaced by an ICE because of engineering issues. Despite my booking I wasn’t allowed to take my bike on it. BIkes on ICE trains were strictly verboten. The amount of rebooking admin for the ferry rail combination the following day was a nightmare – and only surpassed by the time that I tried to be smart to make up for a delayed train. I was booked to return home via Rotterdam and time was getting tight. Someone kindly planned me a route to the ferry terminal that would get there on time – and I failed to realise that I was destined for Hoek van Holland where the Stena ferries dock, rather than the P&O’s Europoort. There is an absolute literal gulf of water between them. The realization that I would not make the ferry only dawned as I stared out over the strait towards the tiny, distant, opposite bank – and despaired. It was an expensive lesson – I had to pay for a ticket on the Stena line overnight ferry leaving that evening – but I made it to work the following day.
Bike ready compartment on the SNCF intercity night train c. 2025
Fortunately, since then, it’s got a bit easier. Railways across Europe have realized the potential of the cycle/rail combination and are actively encouraging it.
The sight of a cyclist arriving on the platform at Paris Gare de Nord, taking off their wheels, turning their handlebars and packing their dismembered bike up into a flimsy nylon bag to make it acceptable in the luggage compartment is much rarer.
These days, most night trains and TGVs in France have reservable bike spaces, the newer German ICEs too. There are cycle spaces throughout the network – for multiple bikes (not just the two that is still standard on some lines in the UK).
I’ve seen sleepy Dutch cycle tourists haul their sturdy bikes off the train at Toulouse, paniers laden, and ready (presumably) for a tour of the Pyrenees. And glanced enviously at the kit bike packers have stowed in the bike racks. When the local train pulls up, the spaces are taken by a mixture of commuters and mountain bikers., hybrids and fancy bikes all doing their various things.
Cycling and rail are the perfect combination. For getting to the office and for going on holiday. It’s one of those things that I’m really glad that is catching on.
Bikes on trains for the win
